How is iris processed? Iris is the blue gold of perfumery. The flower, with its delicious aromas of chocolate, is not the part processed; it’s actually the root of this flower that gives the absolute. Here, patience is a virtue since it takes six years to produce this ingredient! After spending three years growing in the ground, the iris must then be dried for three more years so its fragrance can develop. The roots are crushed into a fine powder, then the “orris butter” is extracted from them using volatile solvents. When washed, it gives the absolute so sought-after by perfumers. It issues slightly woody and dry notes with accents of violet and powdery hints. It can even smell quite carrot-like. Yes, you read that right! These facets are renowned for their ability to make compositions more refined and powerful. This flower has always had a special place in people’s hearts. In Greek mythology, the iris was thought to be the messenger of the gods.
Are you familiar with balsamic notes? Another perfume-specific phrase! Let us explain and you’ll be an expert, we promise. The word “balsamic” is used to describe smooth, sweet and warm amber and vanilla scents with subtle animalistic or musky notes. They generally come from natural resins or gums like myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, balsam of Peru, and Copahu balsam. We love them because they bring a touch of mystery to a fragrance, add softness, warmth and body, and most importantly make base notes last longer.
Where does frankincense come from? To get frankincense resin, you need to cut into the tree – a bit barbaric, we agree! The trees grow in hot and arid soil in places like Sudan, Ethiopia, Yemen and Somalia. Oliban – another name for frankincense – releases a heady but beautiful aroma. It has camphoric, waxy, mineral, spicy and even peppery facets. We particularly like the depth that it brings to a creation as soon as it appears.
